Monthly Archives: May 2013

Leg 8 – to Newcastle & Warkworth

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08 May 2013

After a good night’s sleep I awoke to a duller day requiring more layers due to an overcast sky and colder wind. Eating nearly  the last of my porridge I realised I’d definitely need to buy supplies soon, luckily I had a B&B stop at a colleague’s house planned for that evening.

After a quick check of the route on my maps, due to my Garmin still being disabled (must email them!), I hit the road in good time and pedalled back to Seaham, before turning North up the coast towards Sunderland. The clouds were building up and looking more and more threatening at this point however I hoped to avoid the worst of any rain which was moving up from the South. I stopped in Sunderland for a second breakfast at a McDonald’s, the first of the trip, because they have free wifi and I needed to do a blog update. Breakfast wasn’t to bad either as it happens.

Post hobbit breakfast I crossed the river, negotiating some serious traffic and exchanging a few pleasantries in the process. I actually enjoy the challenge of cycling in cities and it makes a nice contrast to sleepy country lanes. It doesn’t intimidate me, you just have to keep your wits about you and respect the rules of the road. Don’t jump traffic lights, it really annoys drivers! Mutual respect is the way forward.

Continued on to Whitburn Bay where there were a few kite surfers out braving the cold North Sea, then on to South Shields, a pretty dull and dirty ride so far.

Whitburn Bay and kites

Whitburn Bay and kite surfing

I turned inland following the banks of the Tyne and the Keelman’s Way cycle path, to get to Newcastle. After quite a few ups and downs, a few wrong turnings and random horses wandering about, I reached the cycle/pedestrian bridge in Newcastle and crossed over the Tyne.

Newcastle cycle bridge

Newcastle cycle bridge and Opera House


Up into Newcastle I rode a bit of a circuitous route to get to Gosforth, where work have our main office. I wanted to avoid the duel carriageways but succeeded in getting slightly lost due to the warren like nature of Newcastle and it’s suburbs, and the fact my map wasn’t fit for purpose at this point! It also started raining, typical.

Finally reached the office and had lunch with some colleagues. Great to meet up after a week on the road and take advantage of the canteen – got a free lunch too courtesy of the boss who should also be joining me for a leg at some point – no pressure Dave! Another colleague was a little late turning up due to his motorbike breaking down on the way up from Norwich, wheel bearings disintegrated which could have been a lot nastier than it was.

Back on the road, post a morale boost and with jelly babies in hand, I headed back to the Tyne and followed the North bank out to the coast, passing through Byker Village, which I’m assuming gave rise to the tv series Byker Grove with Ant and Dec, and then Wallsend. Wallsend was a bit unimpressive, I’d heard it wasn’t much but I expected a bit more for the end of Hadrian’s Wall.

Wallsend

Wallsend


I reached Tynemouth Village after cycling along Hadrian’s Wall cycle path, past various dockyards and ships, and found an impressive castle on the bluff.

Tynemouth Castle 1

Tynemouth Castle 1


 

Tynemouth Castle 2

Tynemouth Castle 2


After the morning’s ride the coastline was much more impressive, and nice to spend the majority of the ride on cycle paths or the promenade.

Tynemouth Village

Tynemouth Village


 

Tynemouth Castle 3

Tynemouth Castle 3

 

Into the mists

Into the mists


Continued on through Whitley Bay, where I didn’t stop, making really good progress despite the nasty weather. The sun would come out occasionally and make everything steam. Things looked quite eerie in the mists, especially the slowly turning now familiar wind farms. Sound also goes a bit different in the mist or fog so was a bit spooky, and I thought I might be cycling into Ravenloft (obscure reference there). I was also getting quite tired so started singing to keep rhythm up – probably sounded quite bad but belted out a few Queen numbers anyway.

Had a long yet invigorating stretch up to Blythe, where it started raining again so I put my waterproof back on. I decided not to bring waterproof trousers and just get wet legs. Lycra and thin shorts dry quickly so not regretting it yet. Crossed a couple of bridges and continued north to Newbiggin, which has a plinth in the harbour with two people standing on it. I assume these were statues rather than real people but it was still quite misty so who knows!

Newbiggin

Newbiggin – people on plinth

Continued on through Lynmouth and Ellington, where I passed a bit of a brawl between a group of girls, steered clear of that one, they fight dirty, not a great place. Back on route 1 I passed through Cresswell and then along a coastal track beside Druridge Bay. Really nice ride as the sun started to come out, and the route goes through a bird reserve. There were quite a lot of twitchers out, and a few other cyclists to say hello to. It was getting late at that point and in wanted to make Lynne and John’s in good time so pushed on harder, but had to stop a few times to admire the views.

Highland cattle

Highland cattle


 

At one random point I suddenly remembered where I put my passport and driving license, which had been worrying me for a while. They were cm’s from me in my handlebar bag underneath the money pouch. A safe place! Phew. Had some liquorice from Whitby to celebrate. Also noticed the Ridgeback was starting to make grinding noises, probably due to the rain and sand, so made a note to give it a wash down and lube the following day.

Finished with a ride through Amble, then on to Warkworth with the sun silhouetting the castle – got the picture somewhere but don’t think it’s uploaded to the cloud yet for some reason. A great days ride, bit longer than expected at 81 miles (plotted it on Garmin connect later that evening), but very satisfying to get through the adverse weather and see some friends.

Stayed at a colleagues B&B, No. 28, in Warkworth, Lynne and John Ross, thanks for putting me up guys! John had cooked a fine chilli which really hit the spot, and there was plenty of it to satiate my cycling carb requirements. Also had a couple of pints in their local and tried a different beer, Wymer I think, was very nice. Good to have a natter and swap stories of various adventures. Lynne’s sister is currently sailing from New Zealand to Tahiti, sounds amazing yet slightly terrifying. Good luck to her and her husband! I heartily recommend their B&B for cyclists, bikes can be locked away and they’re great hosts.

Found a note a work colleague had slipped into my panniers when I wasn’t looking wishing me good luck from everyone, thanks Jayne!

It was weird to go to sleep in a real bed again, but I was very quickly snoozing and looking forward to seeing more of Northumbria the next day, and places Lu and I visited a few years ago.

Leg 7 – to Houghton le Spring via Middlesborough

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07 May 2013

After a slightly slower start to the day I was on the road by about 10 o’clock, post a breakfast of porridge etc. I’m going to have to get something different for breakfast, perhaps even cereal which I usually abhor but now is seeming a more attractive proposition, probably as my body is craving more carbs. Can you still get sugar puffs? Used to like them, or shreddies, not sure about some of these new fangled cereals, and coco pops are right out I’m afraid.

Back to non-cereal based conversation anyway. The nemesis device still wasn’t working so was reliant on my road atlas map; I’d removed all the relevant pages from my 2010 road atlas before leaving so I could just have the relevant ones to hand, and had a handy map case to put them in, over my bar bag. The Garmin was relegated to a paperweight to tuck my map case under for the time being.

Map case

Map case


Things didn’t start excellently on the map reading front as I went in a big circle of a few miles, nearly ending up back at the campsite, but I was soon into the swing of things an on my way to Sandsend. The beach and village at Sandsend looked great in the sunshine so I stopped for a hot chocolate at a beach cafe, before venturing into the Yorkshire national park.

Sandsend

Hot chocolate in Sandsend


I could have quite happily sat here for a few hoursmbut needed to get on my way, as had a long leg ahead of me – hill wise if not mile wise.

The first hill of the day was out of Sandsend, and a bit of a leg killer. Glad of the hot chocolate I huffed and puffed my way up to the top without having to stop, using the lowest gear out of the 27 I have available. The hill was one of those that doesn’t seem to stop. Every time you expect it to be over you go around a corner and there’s another stretch! It was about this time I started to crave cheese.

With slightly jelly like legs I continued on through Lythe and Runswick, and several other picturesque moors villages, farmsteads, and hamlets, trying to stick as close to the coast as possible whilst not off-roading. Just before the next really big ascent I passed Boulby Underground Dark Matter Research Lab, which sounds intriguing. Haven’t had a chance to look it up yet, however they are no doubt unravelling the mysteries of the universe. I wondered briefly if they could help with aching legs and heavy panniers, maybe some kind of dark matter fuelled anti grav system. Doubt it, but didn’t have Prof Brian Cox to hand to confirm; he seems to be the latest in-vogue scientist that knows everything. I preferred Jonny Ball.

I had to stop halfway up Boulby hill, it had annihilated my legs by that point and I was in danger of going backwards it was so steep. The photo doesn’t really do it justice, but shows off the lovely countryside.

Boulby hill

Boulby hill


I pushed the rest of the way up the hill, then pedalled on through Brotton and Saltburn, where I stopped at a spar for a bacon roll refuel, and to pick up a few supplies. Next was a descent out of the National Park, which I was sorry to leave behind as the industrial North appeared on the horizon, with chimneys aplenty spouting various vapours lending a slightly noxious quality to the air.

Still craving cheese I ate some baby bells.

At least it was flatter, and undeterred I pedalled on to Redcar where there were several rigs visible out at sea, as well as wind farms. I’ve passed lots of wind farms and they don’t bother me. Got to be a good thing producing clean energy, as long as any adverse impacts are understood. You can’t put them up where there are lots of bats as they can make them explode – the bats explode not the wind farms, due to changing pressure around them. The other way around would be cool but worrying and somewhat hazardous. I wonder if we know the impacts of wind farms out at sea? Do they send whales astray or  slice up sea birds? Still on balance a good thing I think.

Wind farm

Wind farm


On to Middlesborough via route 1, which turned a little hazardous as I passed through some less well kept areas, with burnt rubbish and glass blocking the way a few times. I cycled quite quickly through these bits. I passed Middlesborough football club and spotted the transporter bridge over the river Tees, which I elected to take. At only 60p it was a bargain as I hadn’t been on such a contraption before. It’s a platform suspended about 3m above the water from a huge gantry, which moves the platform over the river, carrying cars, trucks, pedestrians and cyclists a few at a time.

Transporter Bridge 1

Tees Transporter Bridge


Off the bridge I continued up the coast again through more industrial areas mingled with RSPB nature reserves. Reaching Hartelpool I decided to head out to the historical headland where there’s a gun battery and lighthouse. It’s quite a famous point, where the first shell from the lead German battleship landed in the First World War. There’s been a look out point there for 100’s of years, probably longer, including a beacon point during the Spanish Armada years to alert the local militia; don’t think we had a standing army then.

Hartlepool Headland 1

Hartlepool Headland 1


 

Hartlepool Headland 2

Hartlepool Headland 2


Leaving Hartelpool behind I cycled North along the coast past a choppy sea, with a strong tailwind which helped tired legs even if it was a little cold. Going rather slowly by this point I passed through Easington and Seaham, before turning inland to find my campsite at Houghton le Spring, where Lu’s parents lived ages ago. I was so tired by this point I cycled straight past it and had to circle through the town, and then back up a big hill. Thankfully the Copt Hill pub was present on aforesaid hill so I stopped for a point and to check directions. Helpful locals duly set me right and refreshed I set off back up the road to the campsite.

The long cycle was well worth it, a great campsite (The Croft), with very welcoming owners who waived the fee when they heard what I was doing – will add to charity donations. They had a barn I could put my bike in overnight, nice hot showers, and a good spot for my tent close to the kitchen where I could recharge my mobile and iPad. They want to welcome more cyclists, and it’s a well placed spot being the only decent campsite in the area close to route 1. You’ll need to be a Camping and Caravan member though, which is worthwhile for any extended touring.

Finished the day on a dinner of sausage casserole cooked on my stove, plus quite a bit of cheese! I needed the carbs after today’s 70 hilly miles. Weather due to change tomorrow so expecting rain and waterproofs for the first time.

The Croft, Houghton le Spring

The Croft, Houghton le Spring

Leg 6 – To Whitby – rest day ahoy!

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Still a couple of blog posts behind but getting there on the catching up front. Photos will have to wait until I get to a computer, or I might put up a complete gallery individually if get to a good place with wifi for my phone to connect into. Trouble is the wordpress app on the phone isn’t that great, several usability issues that could be fixed relatively easily and improving it lots.

06 May 2013
Seeing it was a rest day had a later start to the day, not setting off until 10am. My legs were aching slightly from yesterday’s exertions so definitely good timing on the break front. Packed up in the sunshine, with little in the way of wind, just enough for the kids camping nearby to get their kites up in the air. One of them proceeded to nearly dive bomb me several times accidentally – was slightly worried any sudden gust might take them over the edge of the hill and down a steep drop, that would have been character building at the very least!

Had a wander around the campsite and was bemused to see several caravans with satellite dishes or tv aerials, not sure why people would want to watch tv in such a beautiful spot but guess they like their home comforts, and don’t want to miss their favourite soap.

Bay Ness farm also hosts an off roading centre which I thought was a little dangerous, perched as it is at the top of a very steep and long hill, but probably adds to the adrenalin rush. A group of men were standing around a rugged looking jeep being loaded on to the back of a pick-up, all peering at the underside and admiring the damage done the day before; bent axle, bits sticking out that shouldn’t be, I’m sure my friend Neal would have been able to identify the bits far better than I, into off roading as he is. The owner of the jeep was promising to put photos up on his website of the post mortem, all very exciting if you’re into cars judging by the convivial atmosphere and general mirth and grunting. I prefer bikes, easier to mend and generally less expensive, most of the time.

Anyway I mounted my trusty steed for day 06, seems like longer than that since I left Norwich, and made my way back down the hill that nearly broke me the day before. Think I’m going to have to get some new brake pads in Edinburgh! After a couple of false starts I found the Cinder Trail, helped by some locals who called out that I was going the wrong way, must happen a lot. Headed North towards Whitby with the black dust coating everything again, making me think I should have taken the road, however the trail goes through some great countryside and wasn’t too bumpy today. I wouldn’t like to do it in the wet but fine in the sunshine, and I was having day 6 of sunshine so all good.

Quite a few other cyclists and walkers out for a bank holiday morning outing, general greetings exchanged in passing. I try to vary my greetings now otherwise gets boring, so occasionally I throw in some French, or Italian, the latter being trickier as I know very little Italian. Even broke into a tuneful ‘good morning, good morrrning’ at one point due to some downhill exuberance, which seemed to confuse the elderly couple I passed, they smiled though. I was passed by one other tourer, the first serious one I’ve met so far, on more of a mountain bike than my Ridgeback so he was coping better with the terrain. We had a brief conversation on the merits of different tyres for this sort of track; I was worried mine might get shredded at some point. I think I’ll either have to change to fatter tyres or stay on them roads more, although saying that haven’t had another puncture, touch wood, since day 2.

I made it to Whitby in good time and checked out the Abbey, which looked suitably Gothic and impressive (insert photos but look it up on google for the time being). Couldn’t see any Goths though, probably a bit bright, and I’d forgotten my goth get up, wouldn’t have fitted in the panniers too well anyway.

From the Abbey I walked my bike down an extremely steep and cobbled road into the town, it was a little hair raising at times with such a heavy load. If I’d let go could have caused quite a pile up at the bottom due to the sheer volumes of tourists out today. Whitby was absolutely rammed, so before going any further I stopped for a bacon and egg roll from a great little cafe at the bottom of that hill. Only £2.50, the yoke did go everywhere though and I had to do some emergency cycling top cleaning.

I continued to brave the masses for a bit, taking in Whitby’s lovely narrow streets and odd mix of shops, from the standard touristy ones where I bought some liquorice and ice cream, to the weirder curiosity shops and goth jewellery and clothing boutiques. And of course a host of fish and chip shops, more than I’ve seen anywhere else. I did have to be careful not to take anyone out with my panniers as I cycled out to the harbour, it was so crowded and people don’t hear or look for bikes, plus they were in general holiday bimble mode so weren’t very alert.

One comment, people really need to get on their bikes more or do some exercise, haven’t seen quite so many overweight people in one place for a while. They’ll be a heart disease epidemic at this rate; something close to my heart, as it were, having had an erroneous electrical pathway in my heart fixed a couple of years ago. Amazing operation via catheter ablation, I got to watch it on a screen whilst it was being done, under the effects of morphine. I remember grinning inanely at the nurse. Glad it’s fixed as your heart rate going up to insane speeds is not pleasant for an extended period of time and made the Docs think I was having heart attacks. In and out in 2 days, hurrah for wonders of modern medicine and the NHS.

Having had my fill of crowds I retreated to the campsite, Broading’s Farm, located just outside the town. Nice and quiet site with good shower block, always important, and friendly owner who let me charge my mobile. Lots of friendly dogs too, including a black lab puppy I think, very inquisitive. At this point my Garmin decided to break, and wouldn’t turn back on despite leaving it to charge for ages. Think it needs a hard reset but can’t do that on the road as don’t have the right tools, will try and find a shop in Newcastle or Edinburgh. Until then the Nemesis device will be out of action, probably a good thing given the last few days of it going wrong. Will use maps for a bit and see how I get on, plus write to Garmin with some feedback when this is over. It’s great when it works but has gone wrong too often, and now I’m going to have to record my miles manually.

Spent the next few hours reading my book, Josie Dew’s Slow Coast Home as recommended by a mother and daughter I met when out training in Norfolk, seems like an age ago but was only a couple of weeks. Great read so thanks for the recommendation. I also napped a fair bit.

Headed back into Whitby in the evening for more feeding and a few beers. Chilled out in the Shambles Bar for a while, which overlooks the harbour and serves great ale. Unfortunately they’d run out of food due to the bank holiday masses, who as mentioned earlier could really have foregone a meal or two and left some for me.

I had dinner at the Fisherman’s Wife, tomato soup followed by haddock and chips. Best haddock and chips I’ve had so far and the waitress gave a donation to the Big C which was great, must add it to my page. The restaurant has a great view over the beach and harbour area. Took some more photos which again I’ll put up at some point – there’s going to be hundreds of them, might have to buy a camera if iPhone runs out of memory. Saw a few rowing jigs, think that’s what they’re called but could well be wrong, out for an evening’s team session, haven’t seen the like since I holidayed in Cornwall.

I did miss the Magpie Cafe which I’d wanted to visit, it was just too busy; the queue was massive for hours. I spent a few hours in the Buck Hotel Inn bar writing up my blog and enjoying a few pints of Tim Taylor’s Landlord again, really superb pint and seems to taste even better up North, must be because it’s closer to home. The bar has free wifi and was playing some great old school tunes as mentioned in my post last night.

So, fully rested and fed I made my way back to the campsite, in a slightly wobbly but responsible fashion, and crashed for the night. Aching legs and body all forgotten, and ready for tomorrow’s leg over the River Tees and beyond. Feels like quite a long way from home now but morale good and looking forward to the next week. I recommend Whitby for anyone that’s not been, i’ll be trying to make it for the Goth festival next year 😉

Leg 5 – to Robin Hood Bay via Hornsea and Scarborough

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Writing this from Whitby again, after a couple of pints so apologies for any spelling errors! Listening to reggae in the Buck Inn Bar, taking me back some 20 years to holidays in Nidris in Greece and the No Wind Club!

Anyway back to 05 May 2013
Had a slightly later start than anticipated due to Mr Timothy Taylor keeping me up later than expected, but worth it from the spiritual side of things. Still packed and on the road by 9am with an 86 mile stretch ahead of me, with a tailwind of sorts so comparative luxury to yesterday.

Rode North through Withernsea and various small villages, with the sea never from sight which was nice after Lincs. Stopped in Hornsea after 30 miles and did some shopping at supermarkets – two rounds of sandwiches for a quid cos they were about to go out of date, plus jelly babies, crisps and a drink. Visited Hornsea Mere and Seafront for a break, nice town and somewhere Lu went as a babe. Again got some photos I’ll put up in due course. There were ducks on the mere and I think I found the Hornsea pottery museum as requested.

Random thought – must give freeganism a go as planned, need to do a supermarket skip raid to load up the panniers. It’s not strictly illegal you just have to be careful, and I hate seeing food go to waste.

From Hornsea I piled on the miles through Flamborough and on to Scarborough, encountering the first real hills since North Norfolk, real Yorkshire Hills too. Power Monkey working well and recharging in the sunshine – topped up phone, but still think a dynamo hub would be better.

Scarborough very nice and would be worth visiting for a few days I reckon. Had a scoot around ignoring the Nemesis device’s constant ‘you have gone the wrong way’ beepings. Lots of good spots for photos which I’ll insert in due course. It’s also true what Mike Carter said in his book, you notice scents more as you’re passing through places, lots of interesting smells from the nasty to the nice – including perfume wafting from pretty girls in summer dresses. That’s a nice smell incidentally.

Rode up to the castle in Scarborough, big hill. Weather lovely and sunny again but the temperature suddenly dropped on the way out of Scarborough, must have been a weather front coming through. Strange to have such a sudden drop in temperature, I couldn’t be bothered to stop and put on layers so I just cycled faster.

Now an advantage to cycling, of which there are many but this one is particularly satisfying. Sailed past several traffic jams today caused by bank holiday cars and caravans. Gave my bell a jolly ring as I rode past sweating drivers, screaming children, and annoyed people in general. Started humming ‘Road to Amarillo’ accidentally, must be because I was up North, but it was then stuck in my head of next few hours. Tried to replace it with songs from Buffy the Musical and was soon belting out ‘Walk through the Fire’, no doubt to the bemusement of any pedestrians.

Turned on to the Cinder Trail North of Scarborough which is apparently a good bike trail, and route 1 was signposted that way. Started off well…got steadily more eroded…I started creaking, bike started creaking, arse starting creaking, then I passed the Hayburn Wyke Inn. Quickly doubled back for a pint – fantastic pub frequented by lots of cyclists taking the Cinder Trail. Was just leaving when a rock band turned up, wish I could have stayed. Lots of motorbike parties and many tattoos in evidence. Lobster rebelled, so I stayed for another pint.

A long ascent followed up towards Robin Hood’s Bay, again along a very bumpy track eroded by the bad winter. The trail is really filthy as it’s built on cinders, hence the name, so everything including me was getting coated in black dust. Ascent finally finished at Ravenscar, which I think is a cool name. A railway line was supposed to finish here but apparently it was never actually finished, the trains couldn’t make it up the gradient. Grea ride through the Yorkshire National Park, past cows going home for the night and beautiful scenery. Photos to follow.

Finally had a long descent to Robin Hood’s Bay, very bumpy and somewhat treacherous at speed but I was buoyed by the thought of reaching the campsite at the bottom. Passed lots of other cyclist who said hello, including one I couldn’t strictly understand however I nodded and made appropriate noises in the right places which seemed acceptable. He mentioned Reynolds Tubing so obviously knew something about cycling but think he might have spent the afternoon in the pub.

Robin Hood’s Bay is lovely, and built up the North side of the bay, unfortunately my campsite turned out to the be at the top of that North side. A truly lung bursting ascent followed, with a severe gradient. Had to push for a bit but didn’t feel too guilty as later learned an Italian competition rider was using it for training.

Finally arrived at the campsite about 18.30, and set up quickly as needed to get the pasta on – Lloyd Grossman sauce tonight, with biscuits and bananas. On the Banana front I’ve worked out I can attach them to my back rack on the cargo net, so must look funny cycling along with a bunch of bananas. Will try and attach more fruit as I go.

Settled down for the night and started to write my journal, only to be interrupted by fireworks from the cliffs to the South of the bay. Really nice end to the day.

Hopefully will update again tomorrow with Whitby happenings, all good. Listening to cool guitar in a the pub and slightly missing having my own guitar, but wouldn’t fit without a trailer, now there’s a thought, but really wouldn’t have survived the Cinder Trail.

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Leg 3 – to Huttoft via Skegness

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I’m writing this from Whitby in an attempt to catch up on posts, there hasn’t been a good connection up until now and I haven’t found an Internet cafe as yet. Having slight technology fail – Garmin won’t switch on so might have to go manual on the map front!

03 May 2013
An early start for the longest leg yet, up to Skeggy and beyond. Good night’s sleep and didn’t get eaten by wolves, although it was a very quiet morning so not sure my fellow campers faired so well! Another beautiful day with the sun coming through the trees.

Breakfasted on porridge, a double portion, and a cereal bar for good measure. Noticed the toilet block had flowers in, a first and probably last, must be because it’s Sandringahm.

Packed and hit the road by 9am, down to King’s Lynn. The Garmin (Nemesis Device) sent me wrong a couple of times and then reset itself, however on the plus side I found a baguette shop in King’s Lynn and had second breakfast – sausage and bacon baguette consumed with vigour.

Crossed the river (Great Ouse I think, it certainly oozed) and headed North East down lots of wiggly roads, trying to stay as close to the coast as possible. Crossed in to Lincolnshire whereupon everything got a lot flatter resulting in some easy miles. Unfortunately the sea view was constantly blocked by sandbanks and dykes, no doubt stopping the sea from encroaching. The Nemesis device said I was at an elevation of between minus 2 and 2 metres for most of the journey, so hope the sea levels don’t rise too much otherwise large portions of Lincolnshire will get flooded.

Crossed over the Sutton Bridge and headed down yet more wiggly but flat roads, through fields of either daffodils or covered in plastic – apparently the plastic sheeting can confuse migrating birds who think it’s water but didn’t see any crash landings. Gave me some ideas for a weird doctor who episode involving germinating cabbage patch kids, and a grand vegetarian conspiracy. Not sure what all the daffodils were for, do they harvest them for something? Must do as lots were turning and would be no good for the florist.

I had to turn into a strong westerly several times as I wound back and forth which made for harder going. Crossed over the river Welland on a short stretch of main road. Glad I didn’t have to spend too long on the main road as had trucks thundering past me for a bit. I was hoping I might pass a few pie shops en route, maybe a few artisan bakeries or suchlike, no luck there as Lincs isn’t very touristy, at least in the bits i was passing through. I settled for a Spar stop where I restocked on Haribo and grabbed a sandwich, and crisps, and another sandwich, I was hungry. Also found a 5 fingered Kitkat, is this a Lincolnshire thing?

On the nutrition front I’ve come to the conclusion to eat when I’m hungry until I’m no longer hungry, and drink when I’m thirsty. Sounds simple but it’s about listening to your body and not worrying too much about this or that mineral or protein. If I feel like some fruit I get some, likewise a steak. Think your body is quite good at telling you what it needs if you listen. Not sure the beer is on the list but good for the mental balance!

Had a great stretch up to Skegness averaging over 15 mph with a partially following wind. Pretty much passed straight through Skegness as it has Yarmouth like tendencies which was backed up my some mild abuse from some local youths. There’s a great promenade if you fancy cruising up and down, however my bike didn’t have the requisite under-lighting and stereo system with mega bass booster whatsit. Passing seas of amusement arcades, fun parks, and endless caravan parks I finally made it out of Skegness and continued north to Blue Bell farm near Huttoft.

Nice campsite with pub only a mile away where I stopped for a pint – Red Lion. Refuelled on an evening meal of pasta with tuna, sweet corn, mayonnaise and Tabasco created on my Whisperlite; an odd combination but provided the necessary carbs and some protein. Had an early bed as long stretch to Kilnsea the next day.

A few other comments/thoughts:

– Nemesis device sent me wrong 4 times today so I’ll be feeding back to Garmin at some point. Doesn’t cope with towns well and reset itself randomly 3 times. Glad I have paper map back ups.

– Slightly concerned about water and how I’ll find more in more remote parts of the country, glad I’ve got puritabs.

– Food balance going well, flapjack is great.

– Be good to get out of Lincolnshire and over the Humber Bridge tomorrow.

– Had an amusing chat with some other campers complaining about the horrible drives they’d had in bank holiday traffic. Not a problem on a bike!

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Leg 4 – to Kilnsea via Hull and Humber Bridge

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04 May 2013
Up at 6.30 for a 95 mile leg to Kilnsea today. Getting into a more regular rhythm now with breakfast of porridge and cereal bars, plus Sainsburys berocca substitute. Also getting quicker at packing up, so was away by 8 o’clock, realise this isn’t early by a lot of people’s standards however I felt a sense of accomplishment, and a I suspect my body clock will start resetting to daybreak and sunset soon anyway.

Wanting to get some good miles under me in the morning I set off up the coast, trying to get away from the dark clouds gathering behind me, that held the promise of rain and strong winds. The Nemesis device sent me awry once when it got confused, and I ended up in the sand again, but only moderately, going to have to give the Ridgeback a good clean soon. Insert picture when I can get it off phone!

Passed through Mablethorpe where apparently Mum first saw the sea, didn’t look like it had changed all that much, perhaps an upgrade to the kebab shop. Legs feeling good despite a cold wind, and then a smattering of rain, the first of the tour but only short lived and didn’t bother with waterproofs. Rode on to Cleesthorpe via a bendy route turning West into the wind, found myself singing ‘busy going nowhere working the whole day through, trying to find lots of things not do’, can’t remember what film that’s from, an old one I need to watch again.

I was chased by an enthusiastic boxer dog down one country track, whilst the owner shouted for him to stop, ‘Monty, come back Monty, down Monty’. Reminded me of that Fenton YouTube clip. Needless to say the dog completely ignored it’s owner and I ended up with a wet nose pressed against my leg before he retreated, just wanted to say hello.

Found a good bakery in Cleesthorpe, post a nice ride through a country park, so stopped for second breakfast at 11 o’clock – breakfast bap and pizza slice, very nice too. Rode on to Grimsby through heavy traffic down a duel carriageway which was a little bit alarming, especially when the Nemesis device went a bit awry and sent me towards a motorway. I turned back through the Europarc and picked up the correct route alongside the Humber estuary. Not the prettiest of routes but much less traffic and interesting industrial plants. The Humber estuary is massive with lots of shipping, but very murky which was exacerbated by an overcast day. A few fishermen were braving the weather and waiting patiently for a nibble.

Passed a few groups of cyclists out for a Sunday ride who all waved or said hello. Finally made it out of the industrial area and back into the countryside, which held a stark contrast to the last few miles. Suddenly the birdsong started again, and there were lambs in the fields as opposed to plastic sheeting and daffodils from earlier on in Lincs. Rode past Thornton Abbey which looked interesting but didn’t have time to stop. Insert photo.

Rode on to the Humber Bridge via a somewhat convoluted route, but for once the Garmin coped. I’d been fighting a strong westerly for the last 40 miles or so, which got stronger on the bridge and with the overcast weather was somewhat chilly. Feeling drained I had my first glucose gel of the tour to try and get some energy back. The Humber Bridge is I think the longest cyclable suspension bridge in Europe, so was good to cross, but not very many impressive photos due to dull weather.

Headed on into Hull via Hessle (I think, device got confused again). Very nice to finally have a tailwind which helped the aching legs. Hull looked nice in the sunshine although lots of signs of poverty with closed shops and pound stretchers galore. Bloke at the traffic lights stopped to give me directions to a good route out of town which was nice of him, although think it was the route I had planned in anyway. Nemesis device promptly took offence to this external advice and sent me the wrong way, so I started ignoring it and soon got back on track.

Headed out to Kilnsea via Withernsea and Easington. A great ride with a strong tailwind, averaging around 18mph, and covering 40 klics in record time. Made it to Blue Bell Pond campsite in good time and set up as the wind dropped. Lovely spot – I have a fair few photos I’ll add in due course. Great day’s ride covering 95 miles, will save the tun for another day.

Had dinner at the Crown and Anchor Inn, conveniently located 200 yards down the road. Bit of an extravagance but they had Tim Taylor’s Landlord on tap, plus I needed to recharge several devices including myself, and they kindly obliged with access to a plug. Going to be tricky charging devices as I go if I don’t have access to power. The Power Monkey is good and works to an extent, but doesn’t have the juice to charge everything I need to. I could just stop using the Nemesis device but it’s handy when it works, and lets stalkers track me!

Few other thoughts and comments:

– Blue Bell Pond campsite recommended, and Richard the owner is an eccentric character.

– Good pub quiz at the Crown and Anchor with great group of locals that kept me entertained as I tried to work out the best route for the next few weeks. Probably had too much ale.

– Bike performing really well so far but will need de mucking soon, and re-Lubing as a lot of dust from last few days. The front pannier racks are slipping down slightly which I’ll need to address at some point, but not an issue as yet. Service in Edinburgh hopefully.

– Health update; In good shape and remembering to do stretches and physio exercises, no knee problems. Probably need to eat more but okay at present, hard to take on that many carbs. Arms and shoulders also tired. Will refuel in Whitby and consider a massage at some point, but not from the dodgy one I saw in Grimsby – pleasure girls massage, entry at rear ( made me snigger).

– Passed Lu’s birthplace today, although I didn’t realise it at the time. She spent some of her younger years in this neck of the woods.

Legs 1 & 2 – Norwich to Sandringham

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I’m writing this from Sandringham camping and caravan park, located in a wonderfully peaceful wood next to the estate. There’s a pigeon watching me curiously, I have my suspicions about pigeons.

Using my iPad which unfortunately doesn’t have any of the photos from the last couple of days, so will try and upload them separately from my phone if I can get that connected.

01 May 2013 – Leg 1 to Happisburgh
Having packed and repacked my panniers a few times I was finally ready to leave, on a mostly balanced but pretty heavy bike (think we worked out it’s about 90 pounds), at about 10.30 on a gloriously sunny Wednesday. Lost my passport somewhere but I’m sure it will turn up, probably at the bottom of a pannier at the end of the tour.

Had a great send off from home from my parents, brother and sister in law plus nephew, Lu’s parents, Chris, Jen, Eve and Willow. The latter two were have great fun banging a drum and blowing a trumpet – thanks for the fanfare girls!

Pedalling off with a certain amount of trepidation, and wondering what I’d forgotten, I passed through Norwich before stopping in at work to say bye for 3 months. Got another great send off so left Norwich feeling buoyant.

Had a lovely ride through the Norfolk countryside down to Lowestoft, accompanied by birdsong; lots of skylarks making themselves known at present. Less pleasant were the regular swarms of midge like bugs I cycled through, there were a lot of them, and I think I swallowed quite a few; hopefully good protein?

Made Lowestoft, the Eastern most point of Britain, in good time, whereupon I ate a pork pie in celebration, then had another one for good measure whilst I was waiting for the bridge to come down. Continuing on up the coast I passed lots of shipping activity around and in Great Yarmouth, before cycling along the seafront. There really are a lot of arcades there, and fish and chip shops, I didn’t stop apart from at the traffic lights. It looked okay in the sunshine but not my favourite place on the tour.

It appears my Garmin Edge might have a sense of humour. When plotting out the routes I’m sure I specified paved routes only, so I was a little perturbed when it started directing me down narrower and narrower lanes, followed by tracks. Wasn’t too bad for a while, then I hit sand, at quite a speed after going around a corner. A heavily laden bike hitting several inches of sand at speed, without mountain bike capabilities, does not end well, and I was unceremoniously dumped. Luckily it was a soft landing and nothing but pride damaged. My first reaction was to check no-one was watching, they weren’t, my second was a stream of pretty foul language, my third was to start giggling, it was pretty funny. Post that stunt I took things pretty easy for the next few miles, which involved pushing for a bit through the sandier section of the coastal path, before reaching a proper road near Waxham.

From Waxham it’s only a short stretch up to Happisburgh, and you can see the lighthouse from miles away so despite my Garmin’s best efforts I didn’t get sidetracked. My friend Nigel was waiting at the campsite with a cold beer which was most welcome. I may be doing this unsupported but I don’t think the occasional cold one from a friend counts against me. Had dinner at the local pub, the Hill House Inn, a very welcoming establishment with a fine selection of ales and great menu. I had rib eye steak, followed by rhubarb crumble, and a few pints of Tim Taylor’s Landlord. Parents, plus Norman and Sheila also drove up for the evening so was a lot of fun, even if rather more beer than anticipated was consumed; it’s all good carb loading tough isn’t it?

A note on Happisburgh. The cliff it sits behind is slowly eroding into the sea. I say slowly, last year I think about 4 metres disappeared, including the tower construction which was there to provide access via steps to the beach. Unfortunately the campsite I stayed at day’s might be numbered but it’s a lovely place to overnight at, with a great pub just next door. Showers were nice and hot too. Recommended! We filmed there earlier this year – check out our website and you tube channel.

Pretty chilly night but I was ready for it after the food and ale, and my sleeping bag is toasty. The stars were really bright after being in the centre of a well lit city. Out to sea we could see the lights from a few rigs and shipping heading by.

A great first day, covered 75 odd miles – I’ll link to the route when I can download it from my Garmin (or Nemesis as I’ve taken to calling it). Thanks again for all the donations, support, and interest in this blog, all great motivation.

02 May 2013 – Leg 2 to Sandringham
Okay, it’s getting a bit late as I write this and I need to get a shower before an early start tomorrow, so I’ll keep this brief. Also something just howled…quite close by. They don’t have wolves on royal estates do they? I mean I know they like their hunting but pretty sure there are no wolves in the uk. I won’t stray from the path just in case, didn’t bring any silver bullets, or a gun for that matter!

Day 2 started well with sunshine and a light easterly breeze that would follow me along the coast. Realised my new cycling bib had caused a mild amount of chafing so I applied some chamois cream to the afflicted areas (don’t ask), and wore some looser kit today.

Followed the North Norfolk coast along to Cromer, then Sheringham, it went up and down a lot, and continued to do so, good practice for later on!

Met my parents for the last time in a while in Wells next the Sea and had lunch inn a nice deli – chorizo panini and samosa. They delivered a book I’d ordered off Amazon recommended by someone I met whilst out training who was interested in what I was doing – Slow Coast Home by Josie Dew. Should be good and will no doubt get some good tips.

Got a puncture post Wells, fixed, all good and passerby stopped to check I was okay, another example of how Britain is not a broken society. Passed through Hunstanton where my brother sometimes goes windsurfing – not a good wind for it today with no sales moving out on the Wash – didn’t King John lose the Crown Jewels in the Wash, or was that a tax scam, or early example of expenses fraud.

My Garmin aka Nemesis sent me down a few unpaved roads pst Hunstanton, with sandy bits, but made it through unscathed. I then turned inland through several villages before pedalling furiously uphill towards Sandringham estate, determined to get there in good time. The campsite is set in the woods and is lovely, as are the staff – one lovely lady donated £10 to the Big C when she heard what I was doing, and they recharged the ‘nemesis’ ready for tomorrow. Maybe that’s not such a good thing, might start using the back up map I brought.

Tonight I’ve remembered to do my stretches so hopefully won’t be stiff tomorrow, as have an 80 mile leg to complete. Also had fish and chips from a van that is fortuitously here on a Thursday, most welcome. Had quite a few cashew nuts to boost calories and replace the salt I lost today. Will have a Berocca tomorrow morning to boost minerals etc.

Just heard the estate clock bells ring 10 o-clock so better sign off, and something just howled again. Hopefully you’ll hear from me tomorrow…

Actually, my live track didn’t work today but will try again tomorrow, and if it fails again due to reception will post where I’m passing through and at pertinent updates via twitter.

Few random pics from campsite:

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…now a fox is barking, gotta love the countryside.